Greece·21 - 27 September 2024
Λεωνίδιο Leonidio climbing week
Climb on the red and gray limestone rock in Leonidio.
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Overview
Surrounded by superior quality limestone crags on the hillsides, the town of Leonidio has emerged as a leading sport climbing destination renowned for its well-bolted single pitch and fully bolted, long multi-pitch routes on exceptional limestone rock. Many consider Leonidio as the ultimate spot for sport climbing on mainland Greece. Leonidio's crags comprise a blend of red and grey limestone with distinctive features, delivering a diverse range of climbing options across various grades from F4 to F9a+. The region currently boasts over 2,100 sport routes, encompassing a variety of styles, including tufa columns, steep walls, and caves adorned with stalactites, as well as grey slabs that challenge balance. Most of these routes are single pitch, extending up to 40m in length, while multi-pitch routes - ranging from 40 to 245m - offer climbers a chance to explore the vertical terrain in greater depth.
Highlights
Leonidio
Nestled in a breathtaking setting, the town of Leonidio - with a population of 3,826 - is flanked by two imposing mountains that envelope it from the north and south. The River Dafnon meanders through the town, connected by three picturesque bridges. As the capital of the Tsakonia region, the town boasts distinctive cultural and linguistic characteristics, and its striking architecture is a sight to behold. In recognition of its architectural significance, the town is now a protected site with stringent regulations governing any new construction within its limits. Picture: Map of Kalymnos by Bordone Benedetto (1547)
Climbing history in Leonidio
Leonidio has gained prominence as a prime climbing destination, recognized for its well-secured single pitch routes and fully bolted multi-pitch routes that offer exceptional limestone rock climbing experiences. Further south, Kyparissi, a charming seaside village, boasts nearly 400 routes with unlimited tufas and solid protection. Since 1987, classic multi-pitch routes on the red walls have been developed by renowned climbers such as Remys, Aris Theodoropoulos, among others. In recent years, a renewed interest has led to the discovery of new sectors along the valley sides, resulting in almost continuous development. With support from EU regional funding, the Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing, together with climbers like Kostas Liakos, Nikos Iliakos, and Remys, along with international stars like James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini, have played a crucial role in the region's progress. The addition of over 300 new routes - mostly single pitch, with a diverse range of options for climbers of various skill levels - has kept the climbing history in Leonidio continually evolving. Everything changed by chance, when the Italian climber Andrea di Bari visited Kalymnos for his summer holidays in 1996. Seeing the excellent quality of the rock and the huge potential of the area, he returned to Kalymnos in May 1997 with some climbing friends to put up some routes...
Mount Parnon
Parnon, also known as Parnonas or Malevos (Πάρνων/Πάρνωνας and Μαλεβός respectively), is a massif located to the east of the Laconian plain and the Evrotas valley. It is easily visible from Athens above the top of the Argive mountains. The Laconia prefecture covers the western part of the range, while the northeastern part falls within the Arcadia prefecture. The Parnon range serves as a natural border between Laconia and Arcadia and its summit provides stunning panoramic views of southeastern Arcadia, South Kynouria, and much of Laconia, extending as far as the Taygetos mountains. Additionally, the summit offers views of parts of central Arcadia and southern Argolis prefectures as well as the Myrtoan and Laconian Gulfs.
Hosts
Lorenzo
Lorenzo is a certified IFMGA mountain guide, based at the Dolomites with tons of experience in mountaineering and adventurous trips in Europe and around the world. He has been climbing in Greece several times.
Schedule
Given the abundance of climbs in the Dolomites, we can adjust the itinerary during our climbing week to the preferred challenge level of our clients and the weather. The climbing program is decided on a daily basis based on technique and experience. We are going to leave (early) in the morning (depending on weather conditions) and come back in the afternoon. Lunch will be a snack while climbing. We are going to have a great dinner at Walden Climbing House or at some restaurants depending on your preference.
Previous
Next
Day 1
Arrive in Leonidio
We will meet in Athens and then from there we'll drive to Leonidio. Once arrived ar our B&B we'll have a brief on the area, the style of climbing, crags around, and climbing routes.
Days 2-6
Climbing days
Every day we will climb in different grags based on the grade, technique, and overall experience
Day 7
Last one!
Last climbing day and return home!
What's Included
What's Included
Certified Mountain Guide for the entire duration of the trip
6 days of climbing
Climbing safety equipment
B&B
What's Not Included
Flights
Restaurants and bars
Bus transfer - Kos Airport/Masticari Port (around 10€)
Boat transfer - Kos/Kalymnos (around 30€)
Scooter rental (around 9€ per day)
Anything not detailed in the "What's included" section
Gallery
Leonidio, Greece
Climbing immersed in the cradle of civilization
When you hear the name Peloponnese, what comes to mind? If you possess an aptitude for geography, you may recall that it's the massive landmass in southern Greece that's just barely connected to the rest of the country by a narrow isthmus where the Corinth Canal was constructed. This extensive landmass spans a length of around 180km and a width of 150km, with mountainous hinterlands that ascend to nearly 8000 feet (2407m) and culminate in three rugged prongs to the south, as well as a gentler peninsula, the Argolid, to the east. Situated at the heart of this region is the city of Sparta (Sparti).
Leonidio is one of the best climbing spot in Peloponnese.
In this area, a unique dialect, reportedly a relic from ancient Doric Greek, has been preserved due to isolation in the past. However, the coast road now provides quick access to this strange, almost autonomous valley that stretches 15km from the mountainous interior to the sea, forming a broad but almost dead-end trough. The town of Leonidio itself is located just below the massive red mountain wall of Mount Parnon, which provides it with excellent protection. As a result, the town benefits from an ideal winter micro-climate. Despite being only a mile from the beaches, the town's size is just right, with its tavernas, climbers' bars, fortified hotels (if you have the funds), supermarkets, and a cozy atmosphere. The colossal omnipresent red wall is a reminder that climbing is an integral part of this valley and why you've come here
Trip Tips
Climbing Skills
There is no minimum level required for this trip as you will be accompanied at all times by a certified guide. However, due to the nature of Sardinia's crags, you will get the most out of the trip if you already have a little climbing experience and good level of fitness! On average there are from 8 to 15 metres of powder snow. The mountains are not high, between 1200 and 2200 m, but you ski from altitudes as low as 300-400 m, often a short distance from the sea! Welcome to the ski capital of Japan! At the end of the day, for those who wish, the legendary onsen and hot spring water pools in the best Japanese tradition are available on-site :)
Liability
Fjello selects local partners with the utmost care. For any inaccuracies, however, we can not accept any liability. Rock climbing is a risky sport that takes place in nature. Ultimately, you are fully responsible for the choices you make. Fjello recommends that anyone who does not have sufficient knowledge and skills not go outdoor alone. All our trips include a local certified guide who will take care of your group. Enjoy your adventures safely with first-hand information from the locals.
Travel
Please DO NOT book your flights until this trip is confirmed. Most of our trips require a minimum number of participants to run. Wait for the status of the trip to be confirmed and for more information go to the "How it works" section
You'll Be Staying Here
B&B in Leonidio
We'll stay in a B&B in Leonidio. From the moment you arrive, you will be surrounded by climbers from all over the world, sharing their experiences, knowledge, and tips on climbing in the area. At the end of a long day of climbing, you can relax in the communal area and exchange stories with fellow climbers over a delicious home-cooked meal.
Related Blog Posts
Wed 15 Feb 2023
Kalymnos: the mountainous island
Kalymnos is a picturesque Greek island in the southeastern Aegean Sea that has gained significant attention in recent years for its world-class rock climbing. But the island has a rich history that goes back thousands of years. In this blog post, we will take a look at the history of Kalymnos and how it has become a popular destination for rock climbers.
FAQs
What kind of climbing gear should I bring?
You should bring:
- climbing shoes
- helmet
- harness
- chalk bag
- belay device
All the other equipment will be provided by the guide.
What's the temperature during the period?
You can visit this website for insights about the weather.