Italy·June 1 - 4 2024
Mello Trad - An Eden of granite
An hidden gem of granite, waiting to be climbed in absolute trad mode.
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Overview
Val di Mello, located in the heart of the Italian Alps, is a mecca for climbers seeking a challenging and rewarding experience. The area is famous for its world-class granite, offering some of the most breathtaking and technical routes in Europe. The granite walls rise majestically above the valley floor, providing an awe-inspiring backdrop to the climbing experience. One unique feature of climbing in Val di Mello is that all the multi-pitch routes are only trad, making it a true test of a climber's skills and experience. The adventure starts from the base of the wall, where climbers must navigate their way up using their own gear and protection. This adds an extra level of excitement and thrill to the climb, as climbers must rely solely on their abilities and equipment to complete the ascent. With its stunning scenery and challenging routes, Val di Mello is a must-visit destination for any climbing enthusiast looking for an unforgettable experience.
Highlights
Trad climbing
Trad climbing, short for traditional climbing, is a type of rock climbing that involves placing removable protection devices, such as cams and nuts, into cracks and fissures in the rock as the climber ascends. Unlike sport climbing, which relies on permanent bolts drilled into the rock for protection, trad climbing requires the climber to carry and place their own gear. Trad climbing can be a more mentally and physically challenging form of climbing, as the climber must make decisions about where and how to place protection, and often climb longer and more committing routes. It is considered by many to be the purest form of climbing, as it relies on the skill and judgement of the climber rather than fixed hardware.
Granite
Granite is a common type of igneous rock, typically composed of minerals such as quartz, feldspar, and mica, which give it its distinctive speckled appearance. Granite is formed from the slow cooling and solidification of molten magma beneath the earth's surface, which results in its characteristic crystalline structure. Because it is highly resistant to weathering, which makes it an ideal surface for climbing. The texture of granite is typically coarse and provides excellent grip, allowing climbers to make use of small ledges, cracks, and other features to ascend the rock face.
Schedule
The program is focused on trad climbing, but it can be adjusted to be able to climb the famous "Sasso Remenno" which offers single-pitch sport routes and the rock formations in Val di Mello that are renowned all over the world for boulder.
Previous
Next
Day 1
Arrival day and climbing at Sasso Remenno
We arrive early in the morning and we'll check-in at our B&B. Right after we go climbing.
The very first day will be dedicated to assess the skills of the climbers, so we go to Sasso Remenno which offers incredible sport routes.
Sasso di Remenno is the largest rock in Europe, with a volume of over half a million cubic meters. There are numerous traces and its granite is crossed by generally horizontal erosions, which allow a climbing of support on more or less sharp notches. Artificially cleats, holes and flared hooks were created on the smoothest and most unsightly overhanging streets that allow progression. Climbing becomes more athletic, of power and pure strength, with short and intense muscular effort and bouldering passages that are difficult to resolve "on sight". The most frequented wall is the South, where there are a large number of medium-easy routes, from 4a to 6b.The West side is particularly suited to move the first steps on the rock, with tracks that start from 2c. The north and north-east walls are the most difficult and fun, with overhanging and some artificial routes, which reach grade 8c, the first ever declared in Italy.
Day 2-3
Trad days
Traditional multipitch routes are the best way to discover Val di Mello’s granite walls!
These beautiful routes follow the logical weak lines of the amazing rock formations that frame the valley, along cracks, corners and unprotected slabs.
The common features of all these routes, which were mostly opened in the 70’s by a group of “rebel-climbers” known as the “Sassisti” are: beauty, respect for the rock, fun and adventurousness. The refusal of the use of mountaineering boots and bolts, coupled with the innovative thinking that climbing is worth doing even if there is no summit to conquer, were the inspiring principals of the “Sassisti” movement.
Among the long list of these trad routes, many of the routes gained notoriety and are considered to be some of the best rock climbs at the centre of the Alps. For those who’d like to try this experience, there are several options, from easy grades up to longer and harder routes, such as Luna Nascente, Oceano Irrazionale and much more.
Day 4
Last climb and last day!
Last day will be dedicated to another route. We'll get up very early in the morning.
What's Included
What's Included
Certified mountain guide
B&B
Transports in Val di Mello
Trad climbing gear & ropes
What's Not Included
Restaurants&Bars
Transportation to Val di Mello
Gallery
Val di Mello, Italy
The "Little Yosemite"
Val di Mello, often referred to 'Little Yosemite', is vehicle-free climbing paradise thanks to the vertiginous granite walls with popolar names: Il Pricipizio degli Asteroidi, Luna Nascente, Kundalini, Il Giardino delle Bambine Leucemiche are some of the epic walls in the valley. The valley is set in a beautiful Alpine scenery close to a small and picturesque village of San Martino. The landscape is as idyllic as it is breathtaking. Everywhere you look you see mountains, rocks and lush greenery.
Trip Tips
Climbing Skills
There is no minimum level required for this trip as you will be accompanied at all times by a certified guide. However you will get the most out of the trip if you already have some experience and good level of fitness!
Liability
Fjello selects local partners with the utmost care. For any inaccuracies, however, we can not accept any liability. Climbing and skiing are risky sports that take place in nature. Ultimately, you are fully responsible for the choices you make. Fjello recommends that anyone who does not have sufficient knowledge and skills not go outdoor alone. All our trips include a local certified guide who will take care of your group. Enjoy your adventures safely with first-hand information from the locals.
Travel
Please DO NOT book your flights until this trip is confirmed. Most of our trips require a minimum number of participants to run. Wait for the status of the trip to be confirmed.
You'll Be Staying Here
B&B in Val di Mello
We'll stay in a B&B in Val di Mello or nearby, so to be ready early in the morning to start our climbing activities.
FAQs
What kind of climbing gear should I bring?
You should bring:
- climbing shoes
- helmet
- harness
- chalk bag
- belay device
All the other equipment will be provided by the guide.
What's the temperature during the period?
You can visit this website for insights about the weather.