Italy·31 May - 1 June 2024
Mont Blanc - the Italian route
Summit the highest mountain in Europe from the most challenging route
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Overview
Have you ever imagined to summit Mont Blanc? We propose the ascent from the Italian side which is more demanding and longer compared to the French one but it has a charm all its own. In fact, this climb is much less frequented than the normal routes from the French side and allows one to reach the top of Mont Blanc without taking cable cars or other means. This route is exclusively meant for skilled mountaineers, as it offers both spectacular scenery and immense challenges. Spanning across awe-inspiring glaciers and steep ridges, it traverses the pristine and unexplored regions of Mont Blanc's south face. Originally pioneered by Achille Ratti in 1890 and later established as the Normal Italian Route, it has evolved into a demanding and rarely attempted itinerary in a remarkably stunning alpine setting. As of January 2024, IFMGA guides must accompany only one person per guide.
Highlights
What you will learn
- Progression on mixed terrain: ascent and descent climbing, teaching movements, use of crampons on rock - In-depth study of classic glacier progression technique: ascent/descent/traverses use of ice axe in its various possibilities - Orientation with the use of GPS - Study of itineraries - Risk management - Acclimatization methodologies
Mont Blanc
Discover the awe-inspiring beauty of Mont Blanc, an enchanting mountain that will leave you breathless. Soaring high at an astonishing 4,807.81 meters (15,774 feet) above sea level, Mont Blanc reigns as the crowned jewel of the Alps and Western Europe. As you ascend its majestic slopes, you'll find yourself immersed in a world where heaven meets earth, surrounded by the stunning Mont Blanc massif, which spans across France, Italy, and Switzerland. Standing on the border of these magnificent countries, Mont Blanc's summit forms a natural boundary, embraced by the valleys of Ferret and Veny in Italy, and the valleys of Montjoie and Arve in France. Unveiling an extraordinary blend of culture and captivating landscapes, Mont Blanc has long been a symbol of both harmony and contention, as ownership of its summit area remains a subject of enduring debate between France and Italy. Prepare to embark on a journey that transcends borders and elevates your spirit, as you explore the splendor of Mont Blanc.
Peak bagging the Mont Blanc
Embark on a journey back in time to witness the historic feat that forever changed the world of mountaineering. On a fateful day, the 8th of August in 1786, two brave souls, Jacques Balmat and the intrepid doctor Michel Paccard, etched their names in the annals of history by conquering the mighty Mont Blanc. A momentous achievement indeed, this remarkable ascent was initiated by the visionary Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, who recognized the indomitable spirit of human exploration. In recognition of their triumph, de Saussure bestowed his heartfelt reward upon the triumphant climbers, thus igniting the flames of modern mountaineering. As time passed, Mont Blanc continued to inspire and challenge adventurers from all walks of life. Breaking through societal norms and defying the odds, Marie Paradis etched her own mark on the pages of history in 1808, becoming the first woman to grace the summit of Mont Blanc. The echoes of their courage and determination still reverberate through the mountain's rugged peaks, reminding us of the indomitable human spirit and the boundless heights we can achieve.
High altitude
High altitude scenery is some of the most breathtaking and awe-inspiring in the world. At these elevations, the air is thinner, the skies are clearer, and the landscape is often starkly beautiful. High altitude scenery can include snow-capped peaks, glaciers, alpine meadows, and rugged rock formations. The colors of the landscape can vary from stark whites and grays to vibrant blues and greens, depending on the time of day and weather conditions. The views from high altitude are often expansive, allowing for stunning panoramic vistas that stretch for miles in every direction.
Hosts
Lorenzo
Lorenzo is a certified IFMGA mountain guide, based at the Dolomites with tons of experience in mountaineering and adventurous trips in Europe and around the world. He has tons of experience in high-altitude mountaineering, especially in the Alps.
Schedule
This is a demanding route, requiring a very good level of physical fitness and previous experience in high-altitude mountaineering. We can also propose a 3 days expedition, rather than the 2 days one.
Previous
Next
Day 1
From Val Veny to Gonella hut
Difference in altitude: 1,400 m
Ascent time: 4-5 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Courmayeur for equipment checking and short briefing.
We start at the base of Veny Valley, where we will follow a paved road until we reach Combal Lake. From there, we will ascend the steep moraine, navigating towards the rugged rocky ridge that leads to the Miage basin. For approximately 2 1/2 hours, we will traverse the glacier's moraine, treading on even ground amidst a truly magnificent backdrop. As we approach the final leg of the climb, the terrain transitions from loose debris to snow and ice. The last portion of the ascent involves a steep but well-equipped trail that will guide us to the Gonella Hut (3,050 meters). We will enjoy dinner and spend the night at the hut.
Day 2
From Gonella hut to the summit and descend
Difference in altitude: 1,800 m (ascent) 3,200 m (descent)
Ascent/descent time: 12-15 hours
Departure around 01:00 am. Climb to the Piton des Italiens, from here to the Dome du Gouter. Now cross the large snow plateau until reaching the Vallot hut (4262m). You then mount on the striking Arete des Bosses, which with elegant ridge crossing, sometimes very sharp and exposed you reach the splendid summit of Mont Blanc! You need to stay well focused and still be in good physical shape because the return to the valley is long and challenging along the Gouter normal route.
What's Included
What's Included
Certified IFMGA mountain guide per single client
Technical climbing gear
2 days of high-altitude mountaineering
What's Not Included
Flights
Restaurants and bars
Anything not detailed in the "What's included" section
Transfers
Gallery
Monte Bianco, Italy
Welcome to the highest peak in western Europe.
Standing at the summit of Mont Blanc is an experience that blends raw emotions, immense suffering, and unparalleled rewards. As mountaineers push themselves to their physical and mental limits, the high altitude tests their resilience in every step. The thin air grasps at their breath, and the biting cold gnaws at their exposed skin. Yet, amidst the struggle, a sense of awe and triumph wells up within. The panoramic view from the summit, with its vast expanse of jagged peaks and sweeping valleys, unveils a world that few have witnessed. It is a moment of triumph over adversity, a culmination of months of preparation and determination. The summit of Mont Blanc becomes a sacred place, where exhaustion and pain give way to elation and awe. It is a testament to the human spirit's ability to endure and conquer, leaving an indelible mark on the hearts of those who dare to reach for the sky.
Trip Tips
Technical equipment to bring
- Backpack 30/40l - Harness - Ice axe maximum 60cm - Semi-rigid crampons with anti-bounce - High-mountain boots - Helmet - Telescopic walking stick - Head torch In case you miss some, please connect with us. See the FAQ section for more information.
Variations to the program
In the event that mountain or weather conditions do not allow the planned program to take place, specifically for the 6-day Mont Blanc Stage and the 2/3-day Mont Blanc ascent, the alternative activities will take place in the Rosa or Gran Paradiso area. For all other activities, the 'organization will propose in substitution an alternative program or different dates for the same chosen program (clients will be immediately informed of any additional costs of the proposed alternative activities). In the event that an alternative date cannot be found or no agreement is reached for another suitable outing, we will maintain a usable credit for the same outing to be spent within the following year.
High-altitude mountaineering level
Due to the nature of this expedition previous high-altitude mountaineering experience is required, and it is essential that you are confident with using mountaineering equipment. A very good level of fitness is also required. You'll be accompanied by a certified IFMGA mountain but it is important that you know basic rescue skills.
Liability
Fjello selects local partners with the utmost care. For any inaccuracies, however, we can not accept any liability. Ski touring is a risky sport that takes place in nature. Ultimately, you are fully responsible for the choices you make. Fjello recommends that anyone who does not have sufficient knowledge and skills not go outdoor alone. All our trips include a local certified guide who will take care of your group. Enjoy your adventures safely with first-hand information from the locals.
Travel
Please DO NOT book your flights until this trip is confirmed. Most of our trips require a minimum number of participants to run. Wait for the status of the trip to be confirmed and for more information go to the "How it works" section
You'll Be Staying Here
Gonella Hut
Nestled amidst the awe-inspiring Mont Blanc massif in the picturesque Aosta Valley, the Gonella Hut (also known as Refuge Francesco Gonella or Rifugio Francesco Gonella) beckons adventurers from afar. Perched at an impressive elevation of 3,071 meters, this high mountain refuge stands as a testament to human resilience and a sanctuary for weary climbers. With its strategic location above Val Veny near Courmayeur, Italy, the Gonella Hut serves as a vital waypoint along the renowned 'normal route' to Mont Blanc. Offering solace and shelter to those who dare to conquer the majestic peak, this refuge becomes a cherished haven amidst the breathtaking alpine landscape.
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FAQs
What should I bring?
You can find the full list here
What is the temperature during the period?
You can visit this website for insights about the weather in Courmayeur. Additionally we recommend this blogpost talking about Cold and Wind in High altitude.