Morocco·27 October - 3 November 2024
Taghia - berber climbing expedition
A climbing expedition immersed in canyons, red limestone, and Berber culture.
SOLD OUT
Overview
Taghia is a village of 600 inhabitants lost in the Moroccan Middle Atlas. Staying in Taghia means immersing yourself in another era and in a lifestyle that has nothing to do with ours. Isolated in the High Atlas Mountains, the tiny Moroccan village hosts probably the best climbing you’ve never heard of. The remoteness, committing approaches, and traditional Moroccan way of life give this multi-pitch sport destination a very adventurous expedition feel...
Highlights
Todgha Gorge
Todgha Gorge is a breathtaking natural wonder carved out of the red limestone rock and features towering cliffs that rise up to 300 meters high, providing a dramatic backdrop for hikers and climbers. The narrowest point of the gorge is just 10 meters wide, making for a spectacular sight as the sun's rays shine down onto the rocky terrain. You can explore the area on foot, with a variety of hiking trails and treks available, and surely by climbing with numerous routes available. The lush vegetation and crystal-clear waters of the nearby Todgha river only add to the beauty of this stunning natural wonder.
Atlas Mountains
The Atlas Mountains are a majestic range that stretch across Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia. These mountains are known for their rugged terrain, snow-capped peaks, and stunning vistas that attract adventurers and nature lovers from all over the world. The Atlas Mountains are home to a diverse range of flora and fauna, including endangered species such as the Barbary macaque and the Atlas cedar tree. The Berber people, who have lived in the region for thousands of years, have developed unique cultural practices and traditions that have been shaped by the mountainous environment.
Berber people
The Berber people are an indigenous ethnic group that have lived in North Africa for thousands of years, predating the Arab conquests. Today, they can be found in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, and Mauritania, and are estimated to number around 35 million people. The Berber people have developed a unique cultural identity shaped by their rugged mountainous environment and desert landscapes. Indeed, they have a strong connection to their land, and many still practice subsistence agriculture and nomadic herding. They have their own language, Tamazight, which has several dialects across North Africa, and have developed unique music, dance, and traditional dress. Today, they are recognized as an official ethnic group in several North African countries and have made significant strides in gaining political recognition and cultural rights.
Hosts
Lorenzo
Lorenzo is a certified IFMGA mountain guide, based at the Dolomites with tons of experience in mountaineering and adventurous trips in Europe and around the world. He has been climbing and exploring Taghia several times.
Schedule
This is a climbing expedition, so be prepared to live an adventurous trip. The program is focused on multi-pitch climbing, every day we'll select a route based on climbing skills and experience.
Previous
Next
Day 1
Arrival day
Fly into Marrakesh. From there you’ll need to get to Zaouia Ahanesal. This is possible via two public buses (changing in Azilal). The journey takes around 9-10 hours and costs around 15 Euro. If you have less time and are willing to pay extra, you can travel directly with a 4X4 booked through your accommodation in Taghia. This takes 5-6hours and costs 120 Euro/taxi (up to 6 people). Be warned, there are stories of cowboy taxi drivers hired in Marrakesh ditching climbers in the middle of nowhere once they realise their cars are unfit for the High Atlas roads! To get from Zaouia Ahanesal to Taghia is roughly 2 hours walk along old Berber trails made of rocks and dead trees clinging to the rock faces. Donkeys are usually hired for 10 euro to help carry gear (one donkey between 2-3 people).
Day 2-6
Climbing days
Every day we'll select a route.
These are just some classic options:
- Belle et Berber 6b+ (300m): the warm up and close to the Gite.
- A boire ou je tu la chien 6c (250m): the long and gruelling approach is worth it, which says a lot.
- Canyon Apache 6c+ (280m) - Princess Msmrir 7a (150m): linked together makes for a quality full days climbing.
- Baraka7b/ 6c A0 (800m): Big approach, big route, big descent. Sustained climbing in the 6s with just the one hard pitch. Very popular.
- Zebda 7b+, Fat Guides 7b+, Sussro Berber 7b+ (300m): the trio of neighbouring shorter classics all start with an intense first pitch which is followed by superb sustained climbing on great rock.
- Rivieres Poupres 7b+ (600m): every pitch is world class. The Taghia must do. The route Alex Honnold Soloed as part of his training in Free Solo.
- Axe du Mal 7c+ (600m): the stunning face is by far the finest looking wall in Taghia. A superb challenge for those up to the task.
Day 4
Last climb and last day!
Last day will be dedicated to another route. We'll get up very early in the morning.
What's Included
What's Included
Certified mountain guide
5 days of climbing
Accomodation
6 nights in Taghia
What's Not Included
Restaurants&Bars
Flights
Gallery
Taghia, Morocco
Immerse yourself in canyons and berber culture
Taghia is only accessible on foot or by mule, and you can expect a truly unique and authentic cultural experience. Indeed, the village is home to the Ait Atta Berber people, who have lived in the region for centuries and have developed a rich cultural heritage shaped by the mountainous environment. You'll experience traditional Berber hospitality, including enjoying delicious local cuisine and learning about traditional crafts such as weaving and pottery. However, it is the towering limestone cliffs surrounding the village that have made Taghia famous amongst climbers. The cliffs provide a diverse range of challenging climbing routes for all levels, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys.
Three major canyons: n’Tazart Akka, Akka and n’Taghia Akka n’Tafrawt offer walls varying in height from 200 to 800 meters with some peaks topping out around 3000 metres above sea level. What makes this such a world class venue is the huge vertical limestone walls, unlike most big mountain routes, are often free of ledges and vegetation meaning routes are sustained and pitches of the highest quality from top to bottom.
Trip Tips
Climbing Skills
Even if you'll be accompanied by a IFMGA mountain guide it is necessary to have a good level of climbing. We recommend to climb sport routes graded 6b (VII).
Liability
Fjello selects local partners with the utmost care. For any inaccuracies, however, we can not accept any liability. Climbing and skiing are risky sports that takes place in nature. Ultimately, you are fully responsible for the choices you make. Fjello recommends that anyone who does not have sufficient knowledge and skills not go outdoor alone. All our trips include a local certified guide who will take care of your group. Enjoy your adventures safely with first-hand information from the locals.
Travel
Please DO NOT book your flights until this trip is confirmed. Most of our trips require a minimum number of participants to run. Wait for the status of the trip to be confirmed.
You'll Be Staying Here
Gites in Taghia
There are two established Gites in Taghia. Expect basic facilities but there is hot water and electricity. Breakfast is the same everyday bread and crepes with jam or cheese. Dinners are a rotation of Chicken Tagine, Lamb Tagine and Pasta, always proceeded by Cumin soup and followed by fruit. Before departing Marrakesh (find the big Carrefour) it is recommended that you buy extra food (treats to supplement the local dishes), plenty of energy bars, alcohol, toilet paper and basic medicine.
FAQs
What kind of climbing gear should I bring?
You should bring:
- climbing shoes
- helmet
- harness
- chalk bag
- belay device
All the other equipment will be provided by the guide.
What's the temperature during the period?
You can visit this website for insights about the weather.